January was pretty much non stop for waves, and it seemed like everyone flew in to have a crack at Mullaghmore on one swell in particular. Guys were showing up from Hawaii and the rest of Europe all week leading up to what turned out to be a fun swell, but nothing epic.
Its funny how certain swells just get so hyped up before they even happen!
I arrived at Mullaghmore slipway to see the usual characters unhitching skis and waxing boards in the pre dawn light. I had Nic Von Rupp in tow for a few days and was pretty keen to see him get a few bombs out on the ledge.
As the swell was only just big enough for the ledge to break, everyone was undecided and kind of waiting for someone else to make a move. We decided to just get out there and see what the day would bring.
I love the anticipation of riding big waves more than the act of riding them sometimes. Theres a certain kind of joy i get from trying to keep my nerves in check, getting my equipment ready, changing into my wetsuit in the drizzle, chatting to the other guys as we all go about our business, readying ourselves for whats to come.
It spins me out, this weird little sub culture I've found myself in. Whilst most people were at home sleeping warmly in their beds, we were out there putting what we know to the test, in probably one of the most hostile environments possible. But everyone has a smile on their face, and would be doing nothing else.
We arrived out on the reef to see a flawless 15ft'er drain down the limestone ledge, such power and perfection. Without letting another go by Nic was in the water and ready to go.
He had never towed before and picked it up really quickly, as I expected. On a borrowed board he navigated some good pits, and got one or two whippings.
The swell dropped overnight and a reef up in Bundoran was pumping the next day. Again Nic got barreled off his head, and had a crazy natural affinity with the wave. It was good to watch someone find the groove first session out there.
The rest of the swell was kind of blown out, and we ended up having pints for Danilos birthday one day up in Bundoran. The boys pretty much agreed that Mullaghmore was one tough cookie to paddle surf, boils, rips, and a fast entry all adding to the technical difficulties of the place.
They also all agreed that we have some of most perfect waves they've seen scattered around Donegal Bay.
As I sit typing this rain squalls are lashing the windows, and clouds are whistling across the gun metal grey sky. The waiting period for the Mulllaghmore Competition is dwindling down to single figures and we're all holding thumbs for a sizable storm to spin off the coast. Its back to normal again though, just the usual faces in the water and lots of quiet sessions at the end of lonely lanes.
