Its been another week or so of cooking waves here in Straaalya. Long drives through the beautiful countryside, followed by hike-in / bike-in surfs, beach barbeques and free camps in friends fields leave me thinking I lead a charmed life. Theres been alot of swell about recently, but its all been from a wierd angle so scoring good waves has been difficult. I got to bust the big wave gun out though, rode some big lumps of water at Lennox head on a windy day last week with Pig. We dodged diving birds and cleanup sets for a few hours, sitting out the very back waiting for a connection.
Earlier this week I surfed some of the best beachbreaks Ive ever seen. Jeeez it was cooking, an all day bender of barrels and beatings that left me speechless and broken as I ate my fish and chips that evening. Straddie seems to be a saviour to the Goldy surfers, a powerful wedging beachbreak, secluded from the humdrum of the city by a sharky seaway that few dare to paddle. But once on the island its a piece of paradise, km's of peaks to choose from, warm water and sunshine. Cruising along the backline on the ski looking for uncrowded waves is so much fun, seeing the odd dark shape lurking down there isn't. But when the waves are that good its worth the risk I suppose. I was chatting to an old boy on the beach whilst waiting for the tide who said the further north you go the bigger and more frequent the tiger sharks get, looks like Pig will be first on the rope next time!
Pig amping to get out there..
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