Friday, November 25, 2011

Mully Hill Crew

We've almost been here a month now, and its starting to feel like home.

Some solid swells have rolled around the corner in the past week, but we've been plagued by howling winds and stinging rain. It hasn't stopped us though and spirits have been high. 
The phone rang one night and it was Tom Butler, he wanted to come over from the UK for the week and has managed to weasel himself into our house, sleeping in front of the fire on the lounge floor. That kid is amped to ride heavy waves, whether its paddle or tow and his energy has been relentless. 
One image I wont forget is Pig driving Tom into a solid ,windy ,grey beast out front. It was the biggest wave of Toms life he said afterwards.
Tom also took a pretty bad fall, not an especially big wave, but it sent him pretty deep and pulled his hood over his face. Whilst he was wrestling his wettie underwater I was on the second wave of the set, and just as I approached the end bowl I saw Tom surface right next to me. I managed to shout "watch out!" to him as the bowl exploded on his head and sent him down for round two.
Its been strangely quiet out there with just us and Paul Okane every session. I cant really blame the others for not coming out because its been more like sea survival than surfing. 
Paul has come up with a nick name for us "The Mully Hill Crew" and comes by to drink our coffee and mess up our kitchen before and after most surfs. He also uses the toilet.
Pig is nabbing a few bombs, learning quick and is quiet content to chill by the fire most evenings warming his hooves.

 Last minute running repairs

 Gotta love it


Life on the hill is great, just sitting watching the wild atlantic going through its various moods is pretty special, and we are definitely leading a blessed life out here on the west coast.


Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Sydney to Sligo

It was a long trip, 30 odd hours of missioning through 3 countries but finally I arrived at Sligo Train Station with good mate Pig in tow. Two days earlier I was chugging across Sydney Harbour on the ferry, on my way to the airport when I decided it was time to check the charts for Sligo bay.
A big red blob coming with favourable winds, perfectly timed for my arrival, as if ordered from Huey himself.
Plane travel isn't easy at the best of times, but with my nerves twanging away I tried to get myself mentally prepped for this first proper swell of the season.
After bunking down for the night in Strandhill we got the keys to our new rental house in Mullaghmore, its a lovely place on the hill beside the wave.
We surfed four good sessions over the next two days. Lots of sick barrels, as the wind was super clean. It felt so good to feel the power of Ireland again, in and out of the water.
The last few days have been peppered with fun paddle sessions at some local reefs, just cruising and getting back into the swing of things.
I suppose Ive never been as ready as I am now, so bring on the waves and adventures.

Heres a little clip I just made for Tiki...They sorted me out some warm rubber and a sweet board whilst I was in Oz. The Feather Foil has a really cool feel to it, the bamboo somehow dampens that "Epoxy" feel and the diamond tail has a very cool "drift" through turns. All round it was a rad board to have in my quiver and when surfing the beachies it was the first board I went for. the video.