Friday, November 25, 2011

Mully Hill Crew

We've almost been here a month now, and its starting to feel like home.

Some solid swells have rolled around the corner in the past week, but we've been plagued by howling winds and stinging rain. It hasn't stopped us though and spirits have been high. 
The phone rang one night and it was Tom Butler, he wanted to come over from the UK for the week and has managed to weasel himself into our house, sleeping in front of the fire on the lounge floor. That kid is amped to ride heavy waves, whether its paddle or tow and his energy has been relentless. 
One image I wont forget is Pig driving Tom into a solid ,windy ,grey beast out front. It was the biggest wave of Toms life he said afterwards.
Tom also took a pretty bad fall, not an especially big wave, but it sent him pretty deep and pulled his hood over his face. Whilst he was wrestling his wettie underwater I was on the second wave of the set, and just as I approached the end bowl I saw Tom surface right next to me. I managed to shout "watch out!" to him as the bowl exploded on his head and sent him down for round two.
Its been strangely quiet out there with just us and Paul Okane every session. I cant really blame the others for not coming out because its been more like sea survival than surfing. 
Paul has come up with a nick name for us "The Mully Hill Crew" and comes by to drink our coffee and mess up our kitchen before and after most surfs. He also uses the toilet.
Pig is nabbing a few bombs, learning quick and is quiet content to chill by the fire most evenings warming his hooves.

 Last minute running repairs

 Gotta love it


Life on the hill is great, just sitting watching the wild atlantic going through its various moods is pretty special, and we are definitely leading a blessed life out here on the west coast.


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