Friday, October 4, 2013

Seasons Surrender

Summer on the west coast is a time for work, evening beers
, friends and enjoying the paradise we are blessed to call home.

Surf instructing is a hard job, hard on body and hard on mind, we worked solidly this season enjoying the ocean and the sun which actually decided to shine this summer!

Its been a great year to slow things down, and re-evaluate whats important to me, spending hours inside my head, planning, plotting and scheming about whats to come and whats already been. After many years travelling pretty much non stop its been so refreshing to just appreciate home and live here, day in - day out.

Time spent in the water teaching people to surf, something that has given me everything in my life, has been time spent well. Working with a solid crew of guys, talking about trips, memories and nights out...its been amazing...but summer is drawing to a close now and leaves are falling, swells are coming and temps are dropping.

Preparation has begun, to live life on somewhat of a frontier, to start new things, and to finish old ones as days get shorter, and we embrace the coming autumn and then winter months which lie ahead.

Home definitely is where the heart is.

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