Aye we've had some good sessions over the last 2 or 3 weeks, Christmas just around the corner, fire roaring, waves coming..Cant complain.
Mullaghmore was pumping last monday, it kind of blew me away how many perfect waves I saw that day. It was a day of mental snapshots and adrenalin. I went through the barrier of just being plain cold and thrived on waves alone, they kept me warm and also kept me out there longer, cooling me down. I could'nt come in though, it was too perfect to waste.
The shot above shows the size of the playing field out there, and how heavy the first bowl is. Theres two, the next one is way out of the shot to the right, and on 9 waves out of 10 you cant make it through both.
This is the end bowl, once you get to this stage of the ride its nearly done..but not without one last shack.
The footage from this day is available to watch at http://vimeo.com/33652914
Its been an awesome end to the year for me, just so stoked and blessed to be doing what I love.
A big thanks to Michael Waters for the shots.
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Thursday, December 22, 2011
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- Salt of the Earth
- We are an eco-concious cottage industry emerging from a deep love of travel, nature, surfing and simple design.
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